Ugo Correani (1935 – 1992)
Faux Tortoiseshell Necklace
Milan 1980
Signed Ugo Correani, Made in Italy, with original label
Ugo Correani (1935 – 1992) was an Italian fashion designer specializing in accessories and jewelry design. Born in Frascati, at 20 years old Correani moved to Milan to work in the atelier of Germana Marucelli. In 1973, fashion designer Walter Albini convinced him to use his creativity in accessories, and from then Correani specialized in making necklaces, bracelets and earrings. His jewellery was often inspired by nature and he used materials such as driftwood, coral and stones
In 1976, Correani started a long professional relationship with Gianni Versace, also becoming a close friend of him. In 1984, they also began collaborating with La Scala making the costumes and the jewelry for its theater productions. Correani used to say "The day that I die I want to be buried in a red suit and a shirt by Versace." He also collaborated with Valentino, Chanel, Fendi, Chloé, Christian Lacroix among others.
About Vintage Costume Jewelry:
Costume jewelry– also known as Fashion Jewelry– was especially made popular in the mid-20th century. While their materials were less precious than real gold and diamonds, using glass stones, semi-precicious stones and lead and brass, many big fashion houses and designers produced highly complex pieces of jewelry that stand for craftmanship that today can only be found in so-called Haute Joaillerie. Most famously, Coco Chanel popularized the use of “faux jewelry”, bringing costume jewelry to life with gold and faux pearls. Chanel's designs drew from various historical styles, including Byzantine and Renaissance influences, often featuring crosses and intricate metalwork. Her collaboration with glassmakers, such as the Gripoix family (Maison Gripoix), introduced richly colored glass beads and simulated gemstones, which added depth to her creations without the high cost of traditional precious stones.
Elsa Schiaparelli– Chanel’s lifelong rival– brought surrealist influences into costume jewelry design, famously collaborating with Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau. She created the House of Schiaparelli in Paris in 1927, celebrating Surrealism and eccentric fashions. Her collections were famous for unconventional and artistic themes like the human body, insects, or trompe-l'œil, and for the use of bright colors like her "shocking pink". While Schiaparelli had to close her avant-garde business in the late 1950s and was forgotten for decades, her designs have recently been rediscovered and are celebrated for their bold design.
In many instances, high-end custome jewelry has achieved a "collectible" status and increased value over time. Today, there is a substantial secondary market for vintage fashion jewelry. The main collecting market is for 'signed pieces', which have the maker's mark, usually stamped on the reverse. Amongst the most sought after are Miriam Haskell, Sherman, Coro, Butler and Wilson, Crown Trifari, and Sphinx.
The term signed however is an invention that only reached European production in the late 1950s- when American buyers started to ask for authentification to distinguish high class designers from mass-produced pieces, while in Europe all costume jewelry had been issued by the fashion houses themselves and hence remained somewhat exclusive from the start.
Ugo Correani (1935 – 1992)
Faux Tortoiseshell Necklace
Milan 1980
Signed Ugo Correani, Made in Italy, with original label
Ugo Correani (1935 – 1992) was an Italian fashion designer specializing in accessories and jewelry design. Born in Frascati, at 20 years old Correani moved to Milan to work in the atelier of Germana Marucelli. In 1973, fashion designer Walter Albini convinced him to use his creativity in accessories, and from then Correani specialized in making necklaces, bracelets and earrings. His jewellery was often inspired by nature and he used materials such as driftwood, coral and stones
In 1976, Correani started a long professional relationship with Gianni Versace, also becoming a close friend of him. In 1984, they also began collaborating with La Scala making the costumes and the jewelry for its theater productions. Correani used to say "The day that I die I want to be buried in a red suit and a shirt by Versace." He also collaborated with Valentino, Chanel, Fendi, Chloé, Christian Lacroix among others.
About Vintage Costume Jewelry:
Costume jewelry– also known as Fashion Jewelry– was especially made popular in the mid-20th century. While their materials were less precious than real gold and diamonds, using glass stones, semi-precicious stones and lead and brass, many big fashion houses and designers produced highly complex pieces of jewelry that stand for craftmanship that today can only be found in so-called Haute Joaillerie. Most famously, Coco Chanel popularized the use of “faux jewelry”, bringing costume jewelry to life with gold and faux pearls. Chanel's designs drew from various historical styles, including Byzantine and Renaissance influences, often featuring crosses and intricate metalwork. Her collaboration with glassmakers, such as the Gripoix family (Maison Gripoix), introduced richly colored glass beads and simulated gemstones, which added depth to her creations without the high cost of traditional precious stones.
Elsa Schiaparelli– Chanel’s lifelong rival– brought surrealist influences into costume jewelry design, famously collaborating with Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau. She created the House of Schiaparelli in Paris in 1927, celebrating Surrealism and eccentric fashions. Her collections were famous for unconventional and artistic themes like the human body, insects, or trompe-l'œil, and for the use of bright colors like her "shocking pink". While Schiaparelli had to close her avant-garde business in the late 1950s and was forgotten for decades, her designs have recently been rediscovered and are celebrated for their bold design.
In many instances, high-end custome jewelry has achieved a "collectible" status and increased value over time. Today, there is a substantial secondary market for vintage fashion jewelry. The main collecting market is for 'signed pieces', which have the maker's mark, usually stamped on the reverse. Amongst the most sought after are Miriam Haskell, Sherman, Coro, Butler and Wilson, Crown Trifari, and Sphinx.
The term signed however is an invention that only reached European production in the late 1950s- when American buyers started to ask for authentification to distinguish high class designers from mass-produced pieces, while in Europe all costume jewelry had been issued by the fashion houses themselves and hence remained somewhat exclusive from the start.
