Image 1 of 1
Image 1 of 1
Image 1 of 1
Image 1 of 1
Poseidon brooch, designed by Jean Cocteau
circa 1950
brooch made during Cocteau's lifetime from engraved and partially gold-plated galalith.
Jean Cocteau was a multifaceted French artist renowned for his contributions to literature, film, and the visual arts, and he also made significant contributions to jewelry design, primarily through his collaboration with Cartier. Cocteau’s relationship with Cartier began in the early 20th century, and he became known for his poetic reflections on jewelry, likening Louis Cartier to “a subtle magician” who transforms materials into enchanting creations.
One of the most notable creations associated with Cocteau is the Trinity Ring, which he inspired. Designed in 1924, this ring features three interlocking bands of rose, white, and yellow gold, symbolizing love, friendship, and fidelity. The simplicity of its design, especially in contrast to the elaborate Art Deco jewelry of the time, helped it become a timeless icon. The ring debuted at the 1925 Paris Exposition and has continued to symbolize enduring relationships across generations.
Jean Cocteau and Elsa Schiaparelli shared a creative relationship that bridged the worlds of fashion and art, particularly within the avant-garde movements of the early 20th century. Cocteau, a renowned French poet, playwright, and filmmaker, contributed to Schiaparelli’s fashion creations, showcasing a synergy between literature and haute couture.
About Vintage Costume Jewelry:
Costume jewelry– also known as Fashion Jewelry– was especially made popular in the mid-20th century. While their materials were less precious than real gold and diamonds, using glass stones, semi-precicious stones and lead and brass, many big fashion houses and designers produced highly complex pieces of jewelry that stand for craftmanship that today can only be found in so-called Haute Joaillerie. Most famously, Coco Chanel popularized the use of “faux jewelry”, bringing costume jewelry to life with gold and faux pearls. Chanel's designs drew from various historical styles, including Byzantine and Renaissance influences, often featuring crosses and intricate metalwork. Her collaboration with glassmakers, such as the Gripoix family (Maison Gripoix), introduced richly colored glass beads and simulated gemstones, which added depth to her creations without the high cost of traditional precious stones.
Elsa Schiaparelli– Chanel’s lifelong rival– brought surrealist influences into costume jewelry design, famously collaborating with Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau. She created the House of Schiaparelli in Paris in 1927, celebrating Surrealism and eccentric fashions. Her collections were famous for unconventional and artistic themes like the human body, insects, or trompe-l'œil, and for the use of bright colors like her "shocking pink". While Schiaparelli had to close her avant-garde business in the late 1950s and was forgotten for decades, her designs have recently been rediscovered and are celebrated for their bold design.
In many instances, high-end custome jewelry has achieved a "collectible" status and increased value over time. Today, there is a substantial secondary market for vintage fashion jewelry. The main collecting market is for 'signed pieces', which have the maker's mark, usually stamped on the reverse. Amongst the most sought after are Miriam Haskell, Sherman, Coro, Butler and Wilson, Crown Trifari, and Sphinx.
The term signed however is an invention that only reached European production in the late 1950s- when American buyers started to ask for authentification to distinguish high class designers from mass-produced pieces, while in Europe all costume jewelry had been issued by the fashion houses themselves and hence remained somewhat exclusive from the start.
Poseidon brooch, designed by Jean Cocteau
circa 1950
brooch made during Cocteau's lifetime from engraved and partially gold-plated galalith.
Jean Cocteau was a multifaceted French artist renowned for his contributions to literature, film, and the visual arts, and he also made significant contributions to jewelry design, primarily through his collaboration with Cartier. Cocteau’s relationship with Cartier began in the early 20th century, and he became known for his poetic reflections on jewelry, likening Louis Cartier to “a subtle magician” who transforms materials into enchanting creations.
One of the most notable creations associated with Cocteau is the Trinity Ring, which he inspired. Designed in 1924, this ring features three interlocking bands of rose, white, and yellow gold, symbolizing love, friendship, and fidelity. The simplicity of its design, especially in contrast to the elaborate Art Deco jewelry of the time, helped it become a timeless icon. The ring debuted at the 1925 Paris Exposition and has continued to symbolize enduring relationships across generations.
Jean Cocteau and Elsa Schiaparelli shared a creative relationship that bridged the worlds of fashion and art, particularly within the avant-garde movements of the early 20th century. Cocteau, a renowned French poet, playwright, and filmmaker, contributed to Schiaparelli’s fashion creations, showcasing a synergy between literature and haute couture.
About Vintage Costume Jewelry:
Costume jewelry– also known as Fashion Jewelry– was especially made popular in the mid-20th century. While their materials were less precious than real gold and diamonds, using glass stones, semi-precicious stones and lead and brass, many big fashion houses and designers produced highly complex pieces of jewelry that stand for craftmanship that today can only be found in so-called Haute Joaillerie. Most famously, Coco Chanel popularized the use of “faux jewelry”, bringing costume jewelry to life with gold and faux pearls. Chanel's designs drew from various historical styles, including Byzantine and Renaissance influences, often featuring crosses and intricate metalwork. Her collaboration with glassmakers, such as the Gripoix family (Maison Gripoix), introduced richly colored glass beads and simulated gemstones, which added depth to her creations without the high cost of traditional precious stones.
Elsa Schiaparelli– Chanel’s lifelong rival– brought surrealist influences into costume jewelry design, famously collaborating with Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau. She created the House of Schiaparelli in Paris in 1927, celebrating Surrealism and eccentric fashions. Her collections were famous for unconventional and artistic themes like the human body, insects, or trompe-l'œil, and for the use of bright colors like her "shocking pink". While Schiaparelli had to close her avant-garde business in the late 1950s and was forgotten for decades, her designs have recently been rediscovered and are celebrated for their bold design.
In many instances, high-end custome jewelry has achieved a "collectible" status and increased value over time. Today, there is a substantial secondary market for vintage fashion jewelry. The main collecting market is for 'signed pieces', which have the maker's mark, usually stamped on the reverse. Amongst the most sought after are Miriam Haskell, Sherman, Coro, Butler and Wilson, Crown Trifari, and Sphinx.
The term signed however is an invention that only reached European production in the late 1950s- when American buyers started to ask for authentification to distinguish high class designers from mass-produced pieces, while in Europe all costume jewelry had been issued by the fashion houses themselves and hence remained somewhat exclusive from the start.
