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Fur Pin by Eisenberg Original, signed,
New York, 1940s
the most renowned manufacturer in the United States in the pre-war period for glamorous rhinestone jewellery; early pieces are highly sought after.
"They are either real or from Eisenberg Ice" was a bonmot popular in New Yorks 1940s high society, when speaking of jewelry. Jonas Eisenberg immigrated to the USA from Austria in 1885. He founded his company in 1914 and produced women's fashion under the label "Eisenberg Originals". To increase the elegance of the models in the 1930s, he decorated necklines and ruffles with rhinestone jewelry. The legend of the company's history says that customers wanted to buy these pieces of jewelry individually and since this was not possible, the pieces of jewelry were stolen out of desire.
Sam Eisenberg, the son of the company founder, created the brand “Eisenberg Ice” in 1935 in order to market the glittering costume jewelry individually. Jewelry sales exceeded clothing sales many times over. Clothing production stopped in 1958, but the jewelry company was passed on to the third Eisenberg generation.
In the realm of costume jewellery, few names evoke the elegance, craftsmanship, and historical richness of Eisenberg. Founded in the early 20th century, Eisenberg jewellery has become synonymous with high-quality designs and meticulous attention to detail. Today, collectors and fashion enthusiasts alike continue to celebrate Eisenberg's legacy, making vintage pieces highly sought after.
About Vintage Costume Jewelry:
Costume jewelry– also known as Fashion Jewelry– was especially made popular in the mid-20th century. While their materials were less precious than real gold and diamonds, using glass stones, semi-precicious stones and lead and brass, many big fashion houses and designers produced highly complex pieces of jewelry that stand for craftmanship that today can only be found in so-called Haute Joaillerie. Most famously, Coco Chanel popularized the use of “faux jewelry”, bringing costume jewelry to life with gold and faux pearls. Chanel's designs drew from various historical styles, including Byzantine and Renaissance influences, often featuring crosses and intricate metalwork. Her collaboration with glassmakers, such as the Gripoix family (Maison Gripoix), introduced richly colored glass beads and simulated gemstones, which added depth to her creations without the high cost of traditional precious stones.
Elsa Schiaparelli– Chanel’s lifelong rival– brought surrealist influences into costume jewelry design, famously collaborating with Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau. She created the House of Schiaparelli in Paris in 1927, celebrating Surrealism and eccentric fashions. Her collections were famous for unconventional and artistic themes like the human body, insects, or trompe-l'œil, and for the use of bright colors like her "shocking pink". While Schiaparelli had to close her avant-garde business in the late 1950s and was forgotten for decades, her designs have recently been rediscovered and are celebrated for their bold design.
In many instances, high-end custome jewelry has achieved a "collectible" status and increased value over time. Today, there is a substantial secondary market for vintage fashion jewelry. The main collecting market is for 'signed pieces', which have the maker's mark, usually stamped on the reverse. Amongst the most sought after are Miriam Haskell, Sherman, Coro, Butler and Wilson, Crown Trifari, and Sphinx.
The term signed however is an invention that only reached European production in the late 1950s- when American buyers started to ask for authentification to distinguish high class designers from mass-produced pieces, while in Europe all costume jewelry had been issued by the fashion houses themselves and hence remained somewhat exclusive from the start.
Fur Pin by Eisenberg Original, signed,
New York, 1940s
the most renowned manufacturer in the United States in the pre-war period for glamorous rhinestone jewellery; early pieces are highly sought after.
"They are either real or from Eisenberg Ice" was a bonmot popular in New Yorks 1940s high society, when speaking of jewelry. Jonas Eisenberg immigrated to the USA from Austria in 1885. He founded his company in 1914 and produced women's fashion under the label "Eisenberg Originals". To increase the elegance of the models in the 1930s, he decorated necklines and ruffles with rhinestone jewelry. The legend of the company's history says that customers wanted to buy these pieces of jewelry individually and since this was not possible, the pieces of jewelry were stolen out of desire.
Sam Eisenberg, the son of the company founder, created the brand “Eisenberg Ice” in 1935 in order to market the glittering costume jewelry individually. Jewelry sales exceeded clothing sales many times over. Clothing production stopped in 1958, but the jewelry company was passed on to the third Eisenberg generation.
In the realm of costume jewellery, few names evoke the elegance, craftsmanship, and historical richness of Eisenberg. Founded in the early 20th century, Eisenberg jewellery has become synonymous with high-quality designs and meticulous attention to detail. Today, collectors and fashion enthusiasts alike continue to celebrate Eisenberg's legacy, making vintage pieces highly sought after.
About Vintage Costume Jewelry:
Costume jewelry– also known as Fashion Jewelry– was especially made popular in the mid-20th century. While their materials were less precious than real gold and diamonds, using glass stones, semi-precicious stones and lead and brass, many big fashion houses and designers produced highly complex pieces of jewelry that stand for craftmanship that today can only be found in so-called Haute Joaillerie. Most famously, Coco Chanel popularized the use of “faux jewelry”, bringing costume jewelry to life with gold and faux pearls. Chanel's designs drew from various historical styles, including Byzantine and Renaissance influences, often featuring crosses and intricate metalwork. Her collaboration with glassmakers, such as the Gripoix family (Maison Gripoix), introduced richly colored glass beads and simulated gemstones, which added depth to her creations without the high cost of traditional precious stones.
Elsa Schiaparelli– Chanel’s lifelong rival– brought surrealist influences into costume jewelry design, famously collaborating with Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau. She created the House of Schiaparelli in Paris in 1927, celebrating Surrealism and eccentric fashions. Her collections were famous for unconventional and artistic themes like the human body, insects, or trompe-l'œil, and for the use of bright colors like her "shocking pink". While Schiaparelli had to close her avant-garde business in the late 1950s and was forgotten for decades, her designs have recently been rediscovered and are celebrated for their bold design.
In many instances, high-end custome jewelry has achieved a "collectible" status and increased value over time. Today, there is a substantial secondary market for vintage fashion jewelry. The main collecting market is for 'signed pieces', which have the maker's mark, usually stamped on the reverse. Amongst the most sought after are Miriam Haskell, Sherman, Coro, Butler and Wilson, Crown Trifari, and Sphinx.
The term signed however is an invention that only reached European production in the late 1950s- when American buyers started to ask for authentification to distinguish high class designers from mass-produced pieces, while in Europe all costume jewelry had been issued by the fashion houses themselves and hence remained somewhat exclusive from the start.
